Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Designer interview: Nicholas Kirkwood, the architect and new innovator of footwear

Last month I published my interview with UK footwear designer, Charlotte Olympia Dellal and I’m following up with my conversation with Nicholas Kirkwood, the architect and new innovator of footwear.

If you were walking down the street and passed by Kirkwood you would never guess in 2008 he was awarded the Footwear Designer of the Year award by Condé Nast's Footwear News publication, or that his work has given new life and focused attention to footwear in fashion.

Sitting with Kirkwood one-on-one revealed his quiet and subtle demeanour, a contrast to his bold statement shoes famously known for its architectural quality and use of innovative materials such as python, shaved stingray or laser-cut mirror leather. I came out of this interview appreciating Kirkwood’s deep reflective nature and felt that I only scratched the surface with him.

What inspires you as a footwear designer?

Everything, from architecture to film and music, really also being in London and the work of other people like the ready-to-wear designers; there are many things in London to be inspired by.

What are your criteria for a well constructed and well designed shoe?

First, it’s to find the right factory in Italy who uses quality materials, small stitching – it’s attention to detail. A lot of times it’s in the finishing part, which is something that sometimes gets rushed through in many factories; they clean up, make sure there’s glue on the soles, all these types of things and putting a bit of love in the manufacturing.

Do you have a shoe motto?

I’m going to try and come up with one right now... I’ll think of one by the end.

Can you tell me about a shoe you will never forget?

There is no specific shoe but it’s the work of Roger Vivier and how he used to go to NASA to get a heel developed. The whole idea of the real exploratory and trying to change the boundaries of footwear at the time; it’s him, André Perugia and Ferragamo.

Nicholas Kirkwood spring/summer 2011 collection

What styles of shoes do you like?

I like high heels – you might guess that one (laughs). Things that are interesting as a silhouette, even if you turn off the light and shine a light from behind, it’s the shape a shoe creates that for me makes it interesting.

What styles of shoes do you dislike?

Sneakers on high heels.

What footwear projects do you have planned for the future?

I’m currently working on collaborating with the Keith Haring Foundation to make a mini collection of 10-12 pieces based on of his art work and using it create pattern pieces. It’s a fun project, as soon as I get back from here I’m going to start working on it. 

What is your present state of mind?

I think it would be really funny to say hung over but I’m not (laughs).

Nicholas Kirkwood's design collaboration with the Keith Haring Foundation

Images from Nicholas Kirkwood

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